Drive for now or rebuild the top end?

1980 Kawasaki LTD 1000.  Been sitting since 2010.  I've rebuilt many items including the carbs, brakes and new tires.  I've had it running a few times during this time and it sounds pretty good.  So now I've pulled the exhaust pipes off, mainly to clean the front of the engine and possibly get my rusty header looking better with Cerakote.

What I see inside the exhaust port of #1 was a bit concerning as it does have some noticeable oiliness the other 3 do not have.  Attaching pictures of #1 and #4.  The oiliness doesn't seem to be on the valve stem and the compression on #1 is pretty good.

Cold compression test results.  One is lower than I'd like.  On the other hand the engine just hasn't been through some good riding heat cycles in a very long time.
1 - 125
2 - 105
3 - 120
4 - 120

The valves have not been adjusted so maybe that should be done to see if compression on #2 can come up.  I don't want to tear the top end off if it's not totally necessary.  What other things should I look at before making that decision?

Thanks,
Denis

I wouldn’t worry about the compression until it’s had some use. Valve stem seals can be done without removing the head (there are a few threads on this topic)

I think you should adjust. valve lash and then do a proper compression test with a warm engine.  

  Not broke?  Don’t fix it.  If it runs satisfactorily, we'd ride it until it presented a truly compelling reason for a top end job.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE  

I I wouldn’t disturb a well running system, means;  Check and adjust, if neccessary, the valve lash, ( how are looking the spark plugs?) Compressions don´t look too bad for me! Maybe, a little better after adjustiung the valves, and again check the compression  on warm engine with full throttle open! 

 If you´re in daubt about the compression, start to make a leak-down test on all cylinders, that offers you a better result about engine wear or how...( Checking on each cylinder while pistons are on the absolute top dead end position, with both valve are closed: Than you can see / hear, where the leak is. Valves in or out,  or between cylinder-piston..etc.)

If you are going to adjust the valves, my opinion, buy the proper tool not the Motion Pro style.  It's ok, but can be a bit of a bear to use.

Rev her to the moon and be a nasty person on your rides! Trust me she likes it!!! I dont know if you want to dibble-dabble with fuel additives for carbon but your rings might just need to be freed up a little. Also as others have said probably do check valve clearances. 

It might be a good idea to replace the valve stem seals in they're future but hey, if granny's 2008 toyota corolla can survive 20k mile oil change because she "forgot" 🙄 then I think you should be fine as long as your oil level is fine. 

Thanks for all the information.  Going to leave it for now.  Won't be able to ride it hard until I get the gas tank cleaned out and working.  Stay tuned.